Eating in Alexandria: Mid-range

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Mid-priced by Egyptian standards, Western fast-food chains like Pizza Hut, McDonalds and KFC can all be found in the city's larger malls, but there are more interesting options as well.

• Abo Fares, (in front of Carrefour). Delicious Syrian food.

• Abou Shakra, Smouha Green Plaza (and other branches), ☎ +20-3-4261777, www.aboushakra.com. Popular Egyptian chain specialing in local grills like shwarma (10 LE) and set meals of kebab/kofta, fries and salad (25 LE).

• Elite, 43 Sofia Zaghoul, ☎ +20-3-4863592. Once the favorite hangout of Alexandria's intelligentsia including D.H. Lawrence, Laurence Durrell, and Edith Piaf, but now bears a distinct resemblance to an American road diner complete with vinyl seating and chipped white plastic tables. The staff are still French-speaking and appropriately snotty. Try the plat du jour.

• Hosny, Gamal Abd El-Nasser St (El Mandara), ☎ +20-3-5506655. Middle Eastern food.

• Pastroudis, 39, Al Horriya Road (Raml Station), ☎ +20-3-3929609. 8 AM-1 AM. Bakery with a sideline in desserts and ice cream.

• Tekka Grill, (Eastern Port, beside Diving Club). Delicious Egyptian food, with views of the harbor and Fort Qait Bey. Try the shish kebab and the wara' el enab (stuffed vine leaves).

• www.aboushakra.com