Getting to Delhi: By plane

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Indira Gandhi International Airport (IGI, IATA: DEL) www.newdelhiairport.in, located in the west of the city, is the arrival point for many visitors into Delhi. Once one of the worst airports on the planet, the airport has been taken over by an international consortium, which has completed a first round of refurbishing that has already improved things greatly. Most terminals have basic facilities like money changing and restaurants, and even the toilets are now usable without gasmasks and hazmat suits, but the major problem remains overcrowding — during the peak hours (middle of the night for international flights and early morning for domestic), it can be hard to find even a place to sit.

The airport is split into three terminals, with the domestic terminals commonly known as Palam Airport.

• Terminal 1A (Domestic): Air India ("IC" flight numbers), Go Air, MDLR, Jagson
• Terminal 1D (Domestic): All other domestic flights
• Terminal 2 (International): All international flights and Air India domestic "AI" flights

The domestic terminals are near each other, but both are a long way from Terminal 2 and you should reserve at least three hours to connect. If you are making connections, it can take between 15 and 30 minutes once you exit one terminal to get to the other one by car (depending on time of day and traffic). There is a free shuttle bus between T1 and T2, but it runs only once per hour. (On the upside, it crosses through the airport and can be much faster than detouring on the congested roads outside like taxis do.)

When leaving Delhi from international terminal, security at the airport is tight, so you should show up two hours before your flight is scheduled. For domestic flights 1h 15mins should be enough. The process is smoother than it used to be: X-raying bags before entry is no longer necessary, and shops and restaurants are now located at the gate area, not before security. However, if you wish to change Rupees back into foreign currency, you must do this before clearing security. Gate area shops accept rupees only from Indian nationals.

The easiest and safest way to get from the airport to the city is to arrange transport ahead of time through your hotel (some hotels provide this service for free). You could also try a private taxi firm like Meru Cabs www.merucabs.com which has online booking but you need an indian mobile phone number in order to book. They will wait in the VIP car park (directly opposite arrivals) - should cost no more than Rs.550 to the most distant hotels north of Connaught Place. Alternatively, you can pay for a taxi at the prepaid taxi booths in the international terminal (it is advised that you check your change). The pre-paid booths are visible as soon as you exit customs. The one on the left is managed by the Delhi police. To the right of the exit door are private taxi operators. They are more expensive but the cars are air-conditioned.The number of the taxi assigned to you will be on the receipt. Then, go straight through the airport and turn right immediately outside the front doors and someone will help you find your taxi. There are several options, but the booth operated by the "Delhi Police" is considered the best, with non-A/C taxis to most points in the city Rs.200-300. Keep an eye on your change though and try to avoid paying with large bills.

Do not give the receipt to the driver until you get to the destination as this is what they are paid on. Also, ignore the explanation the driver will invariably offer at the destination as to why he requires additional payment. There is no practice of tipping taxi drivers anywhere in India. Take your baggage first, then give the driver the receipt and walk away without further discussion. There is a problem with this as there is a checkpoint manned by the traffic police just as your taxi moves away, you will have to give the receipt to the driver who will hand it over to the police who will record the number. Try getting the receipt back from the driver!

It is also possible to take a city bus during the day or a private one that runs 24 hours a day. As everywhere in India, ignore taxi touts!

During the winter (Dec-Jan), Delhi often experiences dense fog and visibility is reduced considerably, making it difficult for flights to land and take off. Both international and domestic flights are often diverted or cancelled, so plan accordingly and allow for one or two days for possible delays.

• www.newdelhiairport.in
• www.merucabs.com