Eating in Paris / 4th arrondissement

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• Le Coude Fou, 12, rue du Bourg-Tibourg (Metro Hotel de Ville), ☎ +33 1 42 77 15 16, www.lecoudefou.com. Open till midnight seven days a week, this place is a jewel. It is a real local neighbourhood bistro in the middle of the high rent Marais. The food is good, and the wine selection is great. During the week it offers a 17 Euro prix fixe two-course lunch (including two glasses of wine) and a 25 Euro three-course dinner (does not include wine).

If you are looking for a snack or a quick lunch you could do a lot worse than any one of the kosher falafel stands along the Rue des Rosiers near Place des Vosges. If you are on the island though, a closer choice is just to hop across the little pedestrian bridge to the Ile de St. Louis for lunch at any one of the many charming cafés.

For dinner or a sit-down lunch there are over a thousand restaurants in the 4th catering to all tastes - many more deserve to be listed than this or any other guide has space for. There are nice places, trendy or traditional throughout the district, but most of the really fancy bistros are clustered around the Northwest corner of Place de Bastille. You'll really enjoy walking around and checking out the menus, especially during the week when only the most exclusive places require a reservation. That said, here are some ideas:

• Le Loir dans la Théière, 3, rue des Rosiers (Metro: Saint Paul), ☎ +33 1 42 72 90 61. A highly recommended and quaint little teashop, well worth a visit especially for brunch, which at 15.50 Euro is a great value for the quantity, quality, and ambiance.
• La Perla, 26 rue François Miron (Metro: Hôtel de Ville), ☎ +33 1 42 77 59 40, www.cafepacifico-laperla.com. Everyday 11AM-2AM. There is good Mexican food to be had within a stone's throw of the Ile de St. Louis. They mix a decent margarita too! You'll pay about 10€ for a plate ordered � la carte.
• l'Excuse, 14, rue Charles-V (Metro: Sully-Morland), ☎ +33 1 42 77 98 97.
• Ciao, 7, rue Simon-Lefranc (Metro: Rambuteau), ☎ +33 1 42 71 52 07.
• La Victoire Suprême du Coeur, 27-31 rue du Bourg Tibourg (Métro: Saint-Paul or Hôtel de Ville), www.vscoeur.com. At this fully vegetarian restaurant you can get a delicious and hearty fake meat and two veg meal in a pleasant though disturbingly cult-like atmosphere. 12 to 20€.
• Chez Marianne, 2, Rue des Hospitalières-Saint Gervais (Metro: Saint-Paul), ☎ +33 1 88 64 15 22. Found at the corner of rue des Hospitalières-Saint Gervais, and the rue Rosiers, Chez Marianne --like the many falafel stands in the Pletzle-- serves excellent sandwiches out of a walk up window, but unlike some of the others also has an attractive dining room and a truly lovely terrace where you can enjoy a full range of Jewish/middle-eastern dishes. Falafel out of the window is 4€; in the dining room you'll pay around 15€ for a vegetarian menu, or up to 22€ for the most expensive dishes � la carte..
• Pitchi Poï, 9 place du Marché Sainte Catherine (Metro: Saint Paul), ☎ +33 1 42 77 46 15. Essentially yiddische cuisine with a nice choice of vodkas; the terrace is great when the weather is fine; the whole place du Marché Sainte Catherine is covered with restaurants' tables in summer.
• Brasserie Bofinger, 3 rue de la Bastille (Metro: Bastille), ☎ +33 1 42 72 87 82, www.bofingerparis.com. A beautiful, historical décor in Art Nouveau style (see the ceiling upstairs); good Alsatian cuisine : choucroute, kuglopf, etc. plus good classic cuisine de brasserie.
• Un Piano sur le Trottoir, 7 rue des Francs Bourgeois, ☎ +33 1 42 77 91 91 (fax: +33 1 48 87 36 23). The restaurant is at the end of a long passage. At the front is just a small room with an upright piano and a couple of post-Impressionist paintings. The decor is bizarre: stone and bright purple drywall; two nice chandeliers, and a discoball; a multicoloured curtain with spotlights pointed at it. For lunch it is a traditional place with solid French cooking. Euros 25-35.
• Amorino, 47 rue Saint Louis en L’Ile, ☎ +33 1 42 78 07 75 (marais@amorino.fr), amorino.fr. The oldest of the many boutiques operated by this this gelato (italian ice cream) maker.
• Pain Vin Fromages, 3 rue Geoffrey l'Angevin (Métro Rambuteau), ☎ +33 1 42 74 07 52. It's all about cheese, with a selection of Swiss dishes, and others.

• www.lecoudefou.com
• www.cafepacifico-laperla.com
• www.vscoeur.com
• www.bofingerparis.com
• amorino.fr